Although we have been so busy since our return, that reality is yet to fully sink in; today marks one week since our return from life on the road.
We were on the road 9 months and travelled around 30,000kms.
We have come home loaded with irreplaceable memories of good times and precious family moments; we have witnessed places of unbelievable beauty and met an array of fun and interesting people. We have experienced life and our country in a way that not everyone has a chance to do.
To all who have followed our journey, thank you; it has been wonderful knowing that those we love have shared in our journey and amazing to see so many like-minded souls doing the same.
This journey may be over, but so long as their is blood coursing through the veins of The Travelling3; it is going to be hard to keep us still!!
Leaving Darwin we remet the Stuart Highway; this time with a plan to travel it top to bottom and through Australias ‘Red Centre’.
This part of the journey would be one of mixed emotion for us; the long days driving were often exhausting and the jump in distance travelled per day brought the end of our trip ever closer. But as anyone who has travelled the Stuart before us would recall, despite the highways vast and unique landscapes, there are long stretches of outback remoteness, that leaves you little alternative.
During the trip, between amusing Eli and sourcing pee stops; we found ourselves reflecting on our journey nostagically. One moment pondering ‘are we ready for it to end?’ then the next excitedly planning our thereafter.
Our first day returning to the road would be our shortest drive (384km); but not completely headache free…
Just out of Katherine a squealing sound alerted us to problems with the wearing on the van tyres. Brett did a quick road stop rotation and hoped that would pull us through the 1181 kms to Alice Springs, where we would get some new ones.
We were in Mataranka just after lunch, chose to stay at the ‘Homestead’ and were enjoying the hot springs soon after arriving.
The natural springs had a built in ledge that was perfect for adults and littlies alike. Eli’s confidence soared in the warm water and he was thrilled when Wallabies appeared right at the waters edge.
Mataranka is the location of the replica Elsey Homestead; built for the 1981 film We of the Never Never. Heard of it? Us neither, but it was a film based on a biographical novel of the same namesake and was interesting enough to wander through.
That evening it was lovely to sit back in the Maluka Bar; cold beer, schnitty’s for dinner and a live show by a very talented Country- Folk style musician who mixed guitar, harmonica and didgeridoo music for an awesome sound.
Before bed we took a flashlit stroll, past cane toads (eew) and wild pigs (eek) and went for a refreshing starlit swim.
Two days, 1075kms and an overnight stop somewhere North of Tennant Creek later; we reached ‘the heart of central Australia’, Alice Springs.
A roadside fire and Daly Waters Pub – between Mataranka & Tennant Creek
Devils Marbles and The UFO Centre- between Tennant Creek & Alice Springs
Alice as it’s affectionately known was surprisingly bigger than we expected and surrounded by the majestic MacDonnell Ranges.
It was also freezing; which was a major shock the system!
We spent 2 nights in Alice, doing not much exciting. We got our new van tyres and let Eli run amok on the jumping pillow, in preparation for the long days and big drives ahead.
Leaving Alice we hit the road to Uluru. Like every Aussie traveller Uluru was a major destination on our trip itinerary; it would also somewhat mark the end of our epic adventure.
Again driving in we were taken aback by the scenery and where we had expected a flat, red dust landscape; there was instead hills and a significant amount of flora.
The drive in also sees you past Mt Connor ‘the forgotten wonder’.
Catching the first glimpses of Uluru and then KataTjuta shortly after was exciting and gave off the feeling that we were headed somewhere special.
We checked into the campground at the Ayers Rock Resort. The resort offers varied accommodation and a town square with all the services you need. Amusingly with its resident population of over 1000 people, the resort is actually the Northern Territories 4th largest city.
We drove down to Uluru before sunset. Now on paper, ‘the rock’ is 3.6km with a girth of 9.4km and 348m tall at its highest point. But, as the cliche goes; you really don’t believe it until you witness its astonishing enormity firsthand.
We drove completely around, admiring the rocks different viewpoints and everchanging colours. We spotted a Dingo for the second time in our trip. Eli (and Brett) expressed his wish to take her home; of course visions of ‘A Dingo stole baby’, amongst a variety of laws outruled that!
The sunset that evening set off an amazing contrast of colour against the rock. The scene was one of raw beauty, that we can safely say is better experienced than spoken of.
Around the resort there was a number of daily activities that allow you to immerse yourself in the ancient culture of the Anangu people; the traditional owners of Uluru-Kata Tjuta.
There were didgeridoo shows, dot painters and boomerang & spear throwing activities; turns out Kali is an indigenous word for Boomerang (old you we were coming back)! For cultural purposes you weren’t able to photograph these activities; however, still photography was permitted during the entertaining and insightful traditional dance shows.
We explored Uluru more by day and true to the description of ‘no two views the same’; the rock looked different under the changed lighting.
What a playground, right?!
Climbing Uluru is of great spiritual significance in Anangu culture and they prefer that visitors don’t do so. Respectful of this and because even if we weren’t its doubtful we’d have made it juggling Eli; we chose did not climb Uluru.
We instead opted to walk the base; not the whole 9.4km but down the Kuniya trail. Interpretive signage tells the traditional stories of how Uluru came to be. The signs also highlighted bushtucker flora and led us to sacred sites with indigenous rock art and to the Mutijuli Waterhole.
After that we took the drive to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) west of Uluru. Another impressive view; the Olgas are made up of 36 dome formations, the highest one actually 200m higher than Uluru.
On our final night in Uluru, we walked atop the campground hill and watched the sun set one last time over the rock.
Uluru was a place with such a spiritual feel too it; and it has left an everlasting impression on us all. We could not have chosen more perfect place to end our journey; than the iconic heart of Australia.
Nostalgically watching Broome disappear in the rearview mirror, we headed along the Savannah Way prepared for the long stretches and overnighters up to Darwin.
The roadside along the way featured beautiful Boab trees and many a free roaming cow; alarmingly close to the road!
Nearing our first ‘planned’ rest stop a little too early in the afternoon (with weather a little too hot) we decided to continue into the nearest town; Fitzroy Crossing. Here we were pleasantly suprised to find a little camping oasis on the grounds of a resort, where we wasted our afternoon in the pool.
Fitzroy River Lodge
Feeling in ‘holiday mode’ (a feeling that would come often up here) we wandered to the bar for a pizza and beer.
Unfortunately, Fitzroy Crossing is a ‘dry town’ and with only 2 establishments selling alcohol the resort bar was crowded with locals; so had to get our pizza to go.
Much later that evening Brett woke to footsteps, right before catching local thieves raiding our neighbours car. The neighbours were thankful and the thieves only managed got away with a hat. Regardless, it made for a sleepless night thereafter and changed our minds about staying an extra night!
The following morning keen to put some distance between ourselves and Fitzroy Crossing we headed off soon after rising.
We passed by the Tanami Track/ Wolfe Creek turnoff… one sleepless night was enough. We pulled up instead at a rest area 93kms comfortably out of Halls Creek.
We were officially in ‘croc country’. So, with little else to do for the afternoon we set about croc hunting. We had no luck; spotting only some tracks in the sand which may or may not have belonged to the water dragon we did find.
Spring Creek Rest Area
The following day we arrived in Kununurra and stayed at the lakeside caravan park, on the advice of fellow travellers. Our site was literally on the waterfront; granted it was an unswimmable waterfront (with a salty on the loose) but had many pretty lily pads and made for a cracking ‘front yard view’.
Kununurra Lakeside Tourist Resort
We contemplated staying on to visit the nearby falls, but upon learning they’d been reduced to a trickle this dry season we decided not to.
We did however pay a quick visit to the Hoochery; the oldest continuously running Whisky Distillery in WA.
Then pressed on the following morning, crossing our fourth border; this time prepared for quarantine! We hadn’t purchased any fruit or Veg and thrown the last of what we had away.
We need not of worried seeing as Northern Territory could care less what you bring in; much like their dilapidated sign seems to say ‘come visit, or don’t… whatever!’
The place is certainly relaxed, with it’s 130km speed limits reducing to 80 in road work zones, it’s council workers working in thongs (Bretts dream) and the seemingly unattended bushfires blazing along the roadside.
A Grass Fire in Berry Springs, NT
We passed through Katherine and arrived at Leliyn (Edith) Falls and found ANOTHER favourite to add to the list. The campground was great we had a lovely big site, our very own green grassy lawn and the lower falls were just 150m away. Here the water plummets from the high rock wall into deep cool, clear pools; it made for magnificent scenery, but better than that being a croc ‘management zone’ it was swimmable!!
We immediately exteneded our one night stay. The temperatures were hot, the pool was clear and cool and we spent a couple days swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing.
We ventured back to Katherine for a dip in the Hot Springs. Although, the water wasn’t hot, it was tepid and there was really something quite relaxing about drifting downstream this pretty little spring.
After two relaxed days we were back on the road; headed toward Berry Springs, 36km South of Darwin.
There Tumbling Waters Holiday Park would become home for longer than we originally planned (a sentiment of many who have stayed in the park before us); taking up the ‘stay for 7 pay for 6’ deal…twice!
The park lived up the hype we’d heard and was certainly a favourite for us. We scored an awesome private site right by the pool; Eli was impressed by the Croc enclosure featuring 6 freshwater scaleys and the Bar/ Cafe served superb food and cold beer at really good prices; especially at Friday Happy Hour!
It was a bustling place and from Wednesday through Sunday a variety of events are held. There were outdoor cinema nights, markets, croc feeding & wildlife encounters, bushtucker displays and did we mention $3 beers at Happy Hour?!
The best part about the park though was the constant cries, squeals and giggles of children; those meant families! It was here we finally met other families,like us travelling Australia with kids close in age to Eli.
Eli thrived on having kids to play with and it was great for us adults ‘dining out’ & having drinks and arranging ‘play dates’ & outings with new found friends.
When we weren’t just wiling away our time socialising and swimming we did get out and about too…
Berry Springs was nearby and the palm lined pools, flowing from fresh falls there made for another superb top-end swimming spot.
We also spent a night closer to Darwin City, opting to leave the van ‘home’ and get a cabin.
Oasis Tourist Park Cabin
Not normally the ‘city slicker’ types, Darwin City is the first CBD we’ve properly visited in the four states we have been. We do have an interest in Darwins WWII history though and were excited about experiencing the famous Mindil Beach Sunset Market.
Darwin City & Waterfronts
Darwin is laced with Military history and we found it rather surreal to stand upon the harbour front site of the 1942 Darwin bombings. Here the same commander responsible for the lesser, but more infamous attacks on Pearl Harbour; led 54 land-based bombers and some 188 Japanese aircraft to attack. The first raid began just before 10.00am, ceasing after about 40 minutes and the second began an hour later and lasted for 20–25 minutes. The two raids killed 243 people and between 300 and 400 were wounded; 20 military aircraft were destroyed, 8 anchored ships sank, and most civil and military facilities in Darwin destroyed.
It was hard to picture such catastrophic events occurring where we stood. After explaining the pictures to Eli, that ‘a bomb had dropped hurting some people and making Australia sad ‘he thoughtfully replied ‘aw yes, people getting hurt, that is sad’ then in the next beat ‘ooh look a tug boat’… that brief moment of understanding and sentimentality was touching though.
We drove up and down the city streets, before heading to the fishermans wharf for some NT fresh seafood. Far more expensive than the South Australian market; we settled on prawns at $38/ kilo, for some simple fresh prawns rolls for lunch.
In a lazy afternoon, Eli became the star of the pool to an audience of giggly grandmas; before we set of to the Markets.
With plenty of stalls and the typical warm weather the Mindil Beach Market setting was lovely. Some of the stalls were quite quirky and the array of food tantalising.
We bought a few goodies and learnt the tasty way, that Darwin is destination ethnic food (particularly when it comes to laksa)!
We were front row and centre, for the epic flamethower show; dude had talent and was certainly an entertaining stage presence.
On our way ‘home’ the following morning we swung by the Adelaide River and hopped aboard the Adelaide River Queen, Jumping Crocodile Cruise; possibly the best experience money can buy in the Territory.
Picture a 5.5m croc, it’s belly level with your face and hind legs out of the water on a relentless pounce for food.
Imagine spoting dozens of crocs of various sizes every few metres,popping their well camouflaged heads above water. It’s easy to understand that if you entered the river it’s unlikely you would exit…
A thought we processed after the cruise, at the Humpty Doo Hotel over beers and a croc burgers.
Another day, in a week where we became blissfully unaware of what day that was exactly; we visited Wangi Falls in the Litchfield National Park. A stunning double fall, nestled amongst tall bat-filled trees; good for a dip but a little overcrowded the day we visited.
Now, it was certainly not too much of an arm twist, our decision to extend our stay at Tumbling Waters came about from an invite to the Darwin Festival Teddy Bears Picnic. A family funday held beneath the beautiful trees in Darwins Botanical Gardens. There was live performances and loads of activities for the littlies; Eli and his new bestie had a blast at the various toy, craft and gardening activity stations. They cuddled giant bears, were given freebies and finished of the day with a pony ride and picnic. The entire event was free and rather fantastic.
Our final days at our two week home haven, were spent lapping up the weather and enjoying the time left with our friends; the ghost of our departure day creeping.
The kiddies made the most of playtime and the Mummies had an ‘outdoor salon’ pamper sessions.
We stretched the goodbyes as long as possible, with a cafe date on ‘check-out morning’ (Eli’s first babychino); eventually waving farewell and leaving Tumbling Waters a little more sorrowful than anywhere before it.
Darwin has given us great weather, magic markets and the most delicious laksa outside Thailand. More importantly it has given us good times and good friends whom we miss already, but wish safe and terrific travels.
Us, we’re taking to the Stuart Highway again, this time top to bottom, through the Red Centre and East. So, those of you back home… we may just see you soon!!
Below is a link to an updated map of our journey so far:
https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zpKrXN0m3-JE.k7Y4iTcczRBI
Leaving Karijini, we had 912 kms ahead of us until Broome, the only major town between being Port Hedland.
Port Hedland welcomes you with a ‘Lock it up or lose it’ sign and is a town that many a fellow traveller advised to drive through. So we stopped, we shopped and we pressed on.
We drove into the afternoon and stopped for a night at the De Grey River rest area; a suprising stop on the banks of a river that actually had water! Those who arrived early enough landed sites at the waters edge, where one could easily waste a couple of days. We were in the top half, but that suited us fine for an overnighter.
Amusing Eli (aka the Chux Wipe Kid), our camp and the sunset at De Grey River Rest Area
The following day we were about 15kms from our next stop along Eighty Mile Beach when Brett noticed the car was losing water; right before the temps started spiking and dropping erratically. With nowhere to stop, we watched the gauge flickering, then amost as soon as it began, the problem seemed to resolve itself; leaving Brett to think there may have been an air pocket from the recent fluid changes…. more on that later (and again after that)!
Nevertheless, we made it down another dirt road and into the Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park. Here we spent a couple of enjoyable days, despite the wind. Brett got in a little fishing while Eli and I did some shell collecting (Eighty Mile is known for its varied array of shells).
We enjoyed the parks Wednesday lawn market, featuring some lovely creations of fellow travellers; and also the hamburger night. The $6 burger proceeds go to the Royal Flying Doctor Service and tasted extra nice watching an Eighty Mile sunset.
We still had the issue of the car losing water, but the temps were normal, so we hoped all would be good to Broome (374kms); where there would be more resources to resolve the problem.
So, with stress levels already a little touchy, the last thing we needed (which of course, we had) was a punctured tyre…
Thankfully our neighbours came to the party with a puncture repair kit and assistance. Now to paint a picture of building frustration; the wind was blowing a gale and the tyre that was so easily pierced by a screw wasn’t as easily pierced with the puncture repair tools. Plugging was ditched and the decision to go with our smaller spare was made…. then jack broke and the wheel was stuckfast!
Eventually after some swearing, pulling, swearing and yanking the wheel came free and the tyre deflated enough to pierce and plug afterall.
We thanked our helpers, headed off from Eighty Mile and made it to Broome without any major hiccups.
Our expectations of Broome were low after a number of others had described it as ‘overpriced and overrated’. But we were pleasantly surprised and have thoroughly enjoyed our time there; possibly because the temps were over 30° and sunny the entirety of our time, but also because of the laidback feel of the place.
We got right to sussing out the famous Cable Beach and certainly with its soft white sand, clear blue waters and 4×4 access; it rates high on the list of favourite beaches.
On our first night the caravan park held ‘Happy Hour’. Two acoustic guitarist played in the BBQ area, a R.F.D.S fund raffle was held and roast beef gravy rolls were served at $4 each.
Most of the park visitors attended with their chairs and drinks and we got talking to a holidaying Swiss family. It was lovely getting to know the lovely couple and their 2 children over the next few days; and of course Eli delighted in again having children to play with.
Our first full day was just a ‘regular old day’, to and from the shops; though we did stumble across a Japanese Grave Yard and spent the warmer part of the arvo by the beach. Butter mostly,the day came and went with us trying to figure out our pesky mechanical problem, to no avail!
With our car problems still a mystery, it was nice to take our minds off it a while; swapping stories over beer and wine with our new Swiss friends.
If day one was uneventful, day two certainly wasn’t. First thing, along Gantheaume Point; here part of a ‘dinosaur track way’preserved in the reef rock and stretching 80kms along the Broome coast can be seen. Unfortunatel; the tides which need to be 2.16m (and rarely are) for the prints to be visible were too high, so we saw only the replica castings.
The red rock cliff and turquoise water backdrop were worth the while though and Eli enjoyed ‘rock-climbing’ and dipping his feet in the deep rock pools.
Following on we headed to the Broome Courthouse Markets; a lively and picturesque market packed full of local handmade goods, art and entertainment. Here there were some gorgeous clothes and wares, amazing indigenous pieces, delicious ethnic cuisine and talented didgeridoo buskers. Kali was in market heaven!!
The climax of our day was heading to the beach, with a very excited little boy in tow ready for a camel ride.
Our camels name was Coco and she was the strongest female of the group. Eli was in love!
We’d opted for the pre-sunset ride, a 30 minute trot along the stunning waters edge; though Eli would have rode on for hours more. He adored it so much that as I put him to bed that night, half asleep he whispered ‘I rode a camel t’day, name was Coco and I love her.’ He’s also asked to ride Coco everyday since.
We spent that evening, with our new friends, on their last night; admiring an iconic cable beach sunset followed by a BBQ dinner.
Then with seemingly no shortage of friendly people in Broome we met another travelling couple; whom we shared a few more drinks and laughs with. With the summer-like evenings, it’s really nice to have the company.
Loving the weather and having to wait out the weekend to see a mechanic, we stayed on in Broome an extra couple of days. A little washed out from the fun-filled day before, we spent a very lazy Sunday, only venturing to the beach for a cool off.
Monday came and went as we hovered about the park in dread; fearing Broomes ‘overpriced’ persona was about to rear its head in the form of our mechanic bill. We had the worry to that the car would not be ready that afternoon. We’d already enquired and found we were unable to extend our stay another night.
For once all was good, the car was ready at close of business and the bill wasn’t too far fetched. Though, annoying seeing as had the original mechanic done things right back in Perth there wouldn’t even be a bill!
We sat back that evening a little flustered from our last minute rush, prepping to set off towards Darwin in the morning, then… we decided not to!
Catching frogs on the last night at Tarangau CP
Instead, in the morning we moved to an overflow park and enjoyed one last day in Broome.
We had a little browse about Chinatown Markets; Broomes central hub. It was smaller than expected and had mostly ‘street stall’ quality clothing at ’boutique’ prices.
Shopping in the heat is thirsty work. A problem easily cured with a trip to Matso’s Brewery.
We first sampled Matso beer after last years Good Food and Wine Festival in Sydney. We enjoyed the Mango and Chilli beerss then, so it was great to visit the actual brewery.
We accompanied lunch with 2 beer paddles; sampling all 10 of the Matso brews and ciders. We particularly enjoyed the Smokey Bishop Dark Lager and the Lychee Beer (sure you can figure.out who’s was who’s). The Chango (Chilli/ Mango) was also pretty interesting on the palate.
Matso’s overlooks Roebuck Bay and after lunch we took a stroll out to the point and admired the azure blue waters.
Unable to swim in the low Bay tides, we headed back out to Cable Beach and enjoyed a final afternoon splashing in the waves.
We returned home, blissfully exhausted and although Broome with its infinite summer, could quite easily coax us to increase its town count by 3; we are ready to take on the road to Darwin.
Leaving the WA coast we were excited to be heading to Karijini National Park, another of the Bucket List ‘must sees’.
Karijini is the second largest NP in WA and arguably the most magnificent location of our trip to date!
Leaving Carnarvon the trip was 9hrs 18mins. We broke the drive up with an overnight stay in a bustling rest area; where we were lulled to sleep by acoustic muso’s, playing by their campfire.
Beasley River Rest Area
Fearing that the many campers were all heading to Karijini and that there may not be enough room, we were up bright and early ready to ‘race’ for a spot. This meant we passed Paraburdoo; the hometown of our Carnarvon friends, at a seemingly impolite time for a visit. Eli wasn’t overly impressed to be missing his playmates, but his sorrow was temporarily diverted by Para’s big green truck!
What we had thought was going to be a long and monotonous drive, turned out to be one of our most spectacular; through the heart of the Pilbara and the Hamersley Ranges. Around every bend and over every hill we found ourselves in awe of the mountainous landscape.
Of course the ranges are a source of iron ore and although there are no towns within the ranges there are mine camps. This also meant; much to Eli’s delight, that we saw more road trains than when crossed the Nullarbor (where we really didn’t see many).
Arriving at the Karijini National Park entrance we weren’t surprised to find a queue. We need not have worried though; the Dales Gorge Camp is divided into many separate campground loops with loads of roomy sites.
After the magnificent mountain ranges the first thing you notice about Karijini is a burst of colour; green bushland and golden spinifex grass afront the marbled mountains; all beneath a cloudless blue sky, set upon a deep red surface.
Which brings me to the next thing you notice about Karijini; Pilbara red dust. Who could forget the red dust?! Dust that seems to find it’s way into every crack and corner, of every clean surface and that stains the skin in a way that makes you look as though you’ve either taken up a job with Willy Wonka or just stepped out of an inexperienced tanning salon.
The dust is a small price to pay though for the attractions of Karijini; which we set about exploring that very afternoon.
The places in Karijini cannot fully be described in a way that will do them justice; hopefully our photos will help.
Nearby our camp was Dales Gorge; we negotiated the 800 metre narrow trail of steep stairs (which Eli quit walking at about step 2) to the ever cascading, Fortescue Falls. Even the many tourists scattered about the falls could not detract from the site of them.
A further 300 metres through white-barked gum forrest led us to the incredible aqua waters of Fern Pool. Unfortunately we hadn’t doned our swimwear… a mistake not made two days in a row!
With Eli and the surrounding campers asleep, we enjoyed the stillness of our surroundings. We were completely gobsmacked when a Dingo crossed our campground and stood just metres from us, watching to see what we were about. It was a real moment for us as a Dingo was the one Aussie animal we thought we could only dream of seeing in the wild.
Circular Pool, also part of Dales Gorge was our next point of exploration. We descended another 800 metre slope of stairs (and a ladder), along the gorge floor and through a series of small waterfalls; strategically not slipping.
We rambled about the gorge; skipping rocks, hand-painting stone walls and enjoying the surroundings.
Eventually we reached the climax of the journey; the fern-lined Circular Pool. It was breathtaking… literally; the water was so cold once it hit the chest it took the air from your lungs. Seeing as he sold it so well, Brett was also the only one game enough to take a dip.
Another day on and with the nearby sights seen we hit the car, had a brief stop into the visitor centre showcasing the cultural history of the park, then pressed on down a dirt track… a badly corrugated one! 23km down we reached Kalamina Gorge and with aother descent we were reached the Rock Arch Pool; a heavenly little billabong-like rock pool with little fish.
Returning to the car,a little sick of corrugations we decided not to press on with the remaining 75km track.
When we finished our daily hikes, we simply headed back to camp and enjoyed the sunshine that we had sought so hard to find.
Karijini is nothing short of spectacular; it is a tranquil playground of drastic colour, rugged scenery and impressive waterfalls and pools. A little part of the park will remain with us forever, in muchthe same way that its red dust may never leave our feet!
NB: With reception being a rarity along the North-West coast, we’ve had trouble updating ya’ll with our whereabouts. We are now well into ‘part 2’ of our journey which we will try bring you up to speed on in this post and another later today!
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After 2 months and 2 weeks ‘on hold’ we’d had enough of the cold Perth weather and began preparation for our North migration.
First things first, we booked the car in for a major service… just to be on the safe side.
…A broken injector & unfixed aircon; a $2k bill and a week longer than anticipated, we were ready for the road.
Even in our excitement to be back to life on the road, it is always sad to say farewell. We are very grateful to our ‘hosts’ for having us so long. It has been lovely watching Eli get to know and love his Grandad and Ally; they will be missed, as will their 2 beautiful pups who’ve crept into our hearts.
3 generations
The morning we were set to head off the rain was torrential and we still had to shop and pack the van. We could have post-poned for a day, but we pressed on determined to shake off our recent bad luck.
Finally all packed, we hit the road. Given the weather we decided not to go as far originally planned, instead pulling into a farmstay in Gingin. We had a quiet afternoon exploring the property and enjoying the feeling of being ‘home’.
Willowbrook Farm, Gingin
The next day we followed the Indian Ocean Drive, a breathtaking road on the WA coastline starting in Lancelin; past the sand dunes and beautiful little bay towns, ending in Geraldton. With the beginnings of the ‘wildflower season’ the contrasting colours of the lush green fields and flowers opposite the clear ocean and sand made for a very pretty drive.
Along the way we stopped at the Namung National Park, unhitched the van and drove through The Pinnacles Desert.
The Pinnacles drive leads you on a 4km loop through a rather unusual landscape of thousands of limestone rock formations, some as high as 5 metres; that are simply spectacular to see.
After our stop at the Pinnacles we drove on, stopping for a ‘lunch break’ in Jurien Bay. Our original plan included a stay in the area, but we had not yet escaped the WA winter. So, instead we decided to head away from the coastal breeze to the protection of the bush; and a campground with fire permissions.
The decision landed us at Ellendale Pool; a natural waterhole off the Greenborough River.
The scenic grounds set amongst large gums was once a meeting place for Aboriginal groups and later a picnic area for early European settlers. Ellendale Pool is also the scene from an Aboriginal Dreamtime story about Bimarra the water serpent, who’s cave can be seen in the cliff face.
Again we spent just one night before continuing on our quest for sunshine; and we were getting warmer (pun intended).
We arrived in Kalbarri mid-morning and before even setting up camp at the Big River Ranch Farmstay, we were down to our shorts and tee’s. The campground and facilities were on the ordinary side and we were kicking ourselves a little when we saw the location of the caravan park in town. But, Eli was impressed with the horses, goat, sheep, chickens, rabbits and peacocks; and the view was still nice.
We headed straight into town for a look around and fell in love the instant we got there. Stunning coastline, acrystal clear foreshore and warm weather year round; need we say more?!
Kalbarri foreshore & Coastal Cliffs
We had lunch in the pub adjacent the water and spent our afternoon simply lapping up the sunshine.
The following morning started with a visit to the Kalbarri National Park. The Kalbarri river gorges were high up on our trip Bucket List and words cannot describe the magic of this place. The scenery was amazing, the colours vivid and the atmosphere was something that will stay with us for many years.
Kalbarri River Gorges & Natures Window
We did press on that day kicking ourselves somewhere halfway, thinking in hindsight that we should have stayed put a few days longer. But we hadn’t, so we could only hope that the sunshine would follow and that not all the school holiday traffic was headed where we were!
We arrived in the Shark Bay region and got into an overflow site at a Denham park; set-up on a bed of sea shells, up away from the tourists which suited us just fine.
Denham is a dangerous place; it’s one of those towns you could go for a holiday and just never leave (in fact the manager of the park had done just that)! We were still strolling the foreshore at 5.30pm whilst Eli even swam; the temps were still in the high 20’s and it felt like we had found summer in the middle of winter.
In the morning we found Little Lagoon; a stunning little swimming bay. You can drive around the bay via the beach and there is even gazebos and BBQs built in the sand.
After a play and some lunch at Little Lagoon we headed into the Francois Peron National Park. Francois Peron is 4×4 access only and once we deflated the tyres little we were ready to head down the sandy red track.
It was all fun and games until halfway along the check engine light came on and the car entered limp mode. Thankfully with the scan gauge we were able to clear the codes and press on; but we played on the safe side and only stopped in at the first bay before looping back.
Back at the entry is the Peron Homestead and an Artesian Hot Tub. At 40°C Eli proclaimed it too hot for a swim, but Brett and I gave it a go. It was toasty, but nice on the muscles.
Day 3 we were up nice and early to arrive at Monkey Mia reserve for 7:45am when the daily dolphin feeds commence. Of course the Monkey Mia dolphins are wild and although they do come everyday, it’s at their leisure.
The first of the pod appeared at 9am and 4 more; including a baby, showed soon after. The opportunity to feed them is a random selection and with a few hundred people on the beach that morning we weren’t surprised when we weren’t picked. We did have a prime front row location though (with the exception of one snap happy tourist constantly blocking everyones view); and it was something special having dolphins swim, frolic and feed less than a metre from your feet.
Ever the rain singers it did rain in Monkey Mia that morning and throughout the day in Denham. So when we headed back to town we hit the the pub, where the views were lovely and so was the food.Back at the van we spent our last Denham afternoon, lazily.
On the way out of Shark Bay we stopped at Shell Beach; another of the stops off our trips Bucket List; but it really wasn’t as impressive as it appeared in pictures. It seemed most the shells had been scraped away from the beach.
We also stopped for a few quick snaps of the Hamelin Bay Stromolites.
By lunch time we arrived in Carnarvon and made a snap decision to stop over at a caravan park, rather than at the free site outside of town. It worked out great, the family next to us were awesome (former NSW residents), with kiddies (finally) for Eli to play with.
We spent the arvo fishing from the fascine while the sun set in the sky and the kiddies ran wild on the park. Brett had a fishing mate now, so after dinner the set off for an evening flick, whilst the ladies sat back and enjoyed a chatting over wine.
The following morning we all did a bit of sightseeing. First the OTC Dish and Space Museum, then to Babbage Island home of the the One Mile Jetty and History Precinct.
All were quite interesting, particularly the Lighthouse Keeper Cottage by the Jetty where Brett struck up a conversation with a lady born and raised there. She shared insights about local history of the area and her life as one of the ‘feral island kids’ growing up.
We spent another afternoon fishing by the fascine and just as we were ready to call it quits, a huge Queenfish literally jumped into Bretts arms… via a friendly fishing gent whos luck was better than ours!
We filleted it up, marinated it and shared it with our new friends whilst watching origin game 3, on our final night in Carnarvon.
We parted ways with our new friends the following morning and hit the road; our North-West journey ending and our North-East one commencing.
After a few hoop jumping weeks we finally had WA registration on the van. So we stocked the fridge and decided to head off on a quick exploration of the South-West.
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In the spirit of winter we also stocked up on firewood, planning to get our bush stop and camp fire fix. The South-West does not disappoint when it comes to such stops.
Potters Gorge Campground, in the Wellington National Park was our first stop. It was a beautiful bush setting on the shores of Wellington Dam.
Potters Gorge Campground, Wellington National Park WA
Eli was thrilled to be back to nature and took pleasure in the simple things little boys love; throwing stones, scavenger hunts and toasting marshmallows. We were also contented; the air was crisp but fresh and with a drink in hand, fire at the feet and a delicious soup cooking in the camp oven, we couldn’t want for much more!
We awoke well rested and with rain approaching we decided to push on to our next stop via the Ferguson Valley.
Seems our Hema GPS loves a bit of offroad as much as us;detouring us into the valley down a rather wet and muddy road. We passed a sign that read ‘No Caravans’ so, feeling rather uneasy but unable to turn around, we were relieved to spot the ranger. She gave us directions and advised that though the road was narrow it “should be right”. She was right and the green and gorgeous scenery (if not the excitement) made for a worthwhile detour.
A little further along and back on the bitumen road, we found quite possibly the cutest and quirkiest attraction in Australia (or at least in our trip so far)…
Gnomesville, Ferguson Valley WA
Yes Gnomesville! A magical stretch of roadside, that is home to thousands of gnomes. Gnomes in trees, gnomes on bikes, gnomes watching ‘Gnome & Away’ (pun) on the flat screen telly; basically, just more gnomes than you can imagine, in an array of gnomey situations.
Now even if Gnomeo & Juliet wasn’t one of Eli’s favourite movies right now, he still would have found joy in this place and honestly, so did we!! We even left our mark “The Travelling3 ‘Gnomin’ about Australia”.
By lunch we arrived in Yallingup and the Margaret River region. With solar on the low we checked into the viewtastic, Yallingup Beach Caravan Park.
Hand feeding Lorikeets at Yallingup Beach HolidayPark, Yallingup WA
The day was still young, so we set off to explore the beaches and the spectacular Canal Rocks. Here we spent over an hour admiring and climbing amongst the volcanic rock formations, and photographing the amazing views and wild waves.
In the afternoon Eli was itching to play on the amazing Yallingup Beach playground; complete with tunnel slides, web swings, a wave and a fort. We packed a nibblies platter and a couple of beers and climbed the fort with him for a picnic. The sentimentalism of the moment however; was short lived when the ‘schools out’ rush made their way to the park. The idea was a nice one though!
A rare ‘peaceful Eli’ moment; watching the kite surfers by Yallingup Beach park, Yallingup WA
There is plenty of child friendly fun around the region and we’d looked at either Yallingup Maze or the Wonky Windmill Farm for the following morning. Unfortunately, the rain put a pin in that. Instead we set off to explore Dunsborough and the Cape Naturaliste National Park a little. Both of which we bet are far more enticing on blue sky days.
We then ventured through some stunning wine country, to the Bootleg Brewery for lunch. We ordered a beer paddle and a platter and despite the lingering rain, we sat out back. The grounds were too picturesque not to! Our food was delicious and the beer good enough to warrant taking home a mixed six pack.
Our full bellies and the dreary weather made for a relaxed final evening in Yallingup.
Alexandra Bridge Campground, just 17kms North of Augusta was next. Another bush camp and a great base for our Augusta adventuring.
Whilst in Yallingup we had skipped the Ngili Cave (knowing that Augusta boasts some amazing ones). By ‘most popular’ vote we chose to tour Jewel Cave; WA’s largest show cave. The cave featured huge chambers, a variety of formations and dazzling cave crystals; all enhanced by light shows and a knowledgeable tour guide. It did not disappoint!
We were unsure how Eli would react to the cave and if he would like it, he did! He loved climbing the many stairs and was amazed by his surroundings; though when the lights were switched off for a moment of ‘cave darkness’ he did repeatedly request that ‘the lady turn lights on’!
Out of the darkness and with a little more daylight to burn we popped over to Hamelin Bay. Hamelin Bay is the kind of bay featured on postcards and at the right time of day (when the boats come in) you can get up close enough to feed friendly stingrays. Of course we weren’t there at the right time and given the weather and the weed wash against the boat ramp, it didn’t look likely many would be around. The view was still stunning though.
Once back at camp Brett began what seemed to be a losing battle against fire, wet timber and the on again/ off again drizzling rain. Eventually he won… with a little diesel!
We spent a rather funny night by that fire rocking and playing air guitar with the lil man and in the morning before leaving Alexandra Bridge, we fed the ducks…
Our next drive was through Pemberton and towards Denmark/ Albany. The roads were very scenic, lined with giant Karri trees; each in excess of 60 metres tall and amazing to see!
19kms West of Denmark we spent a night at another superb WA bush camp, Parry Beach. A few steps and we were on the beach, which also allowed 4WD access.
Parry Beach Campground, Denmark WA
It was then onto Albany where we ‘yuppied’ it up a little with our first ensuite site. We set-up before the rain, then spent the afternoon ‘in’ baking and painting.
The following morning we set out to look at Shelly Beach and a few campsites around it.
We then had a fresh and tasty fish and chip lunch at the Squid Shack followed by a wander about Emu Point Harbor.
We were terribly saddened to see a bronze statue on the waterfront in honour of Sammy the Seal. Sammy was a friendly, attention seeking regular at Emu Point for many years, until in 2006 when he was brutally slayed and left to die. His statue stands where he was found. The plaque reads “Loved by all, betrayed by one”. Having seen these creatures in their habitats, we have no words for such an action as it is simply incomprehensible.
We take comfort in the fact that one little man loves and respects his animal friends. He spent the afternoon feeding the last of our bread to the parks resident roos and emu.
On our last day in Albany we requested a late checkout, as we were yet to see the Old Convict Goal and the Brig Amity ship. We spent the morning about Albany, past Dog Rock and up to the Anzac Memorial. We viewed the Ship and the Goal externally and finished up at the Boatshed Markets.
We were then off on the last leg of our journey; our final desination, Bunbury. We’ve been to Bunbury a number of times in our past WA visits; this time we would be catching up with new friends whom we met in VIC earlier in the year. It was great seeing their home, meeting their family and chatting about our mutual adventures, thanks again guys.
Our last day in the South-West saw us trip out to Bussellton Jetty. The last visit here, (almost 3 years ago) Eli was 6 months in the oven and we walked down the 1.8km Jetty and back. This time it was so windy we feared Eli would blow right away! So instead we viewed it from the lighthouse lookout.
The final destination on the agenda was Bunbury itself where we thoroughly enjoyed an Irish feed and a stroll about the town.
A playful afternoon on the jumping pillow came and went all too fast, as did our final peaceful night.
The South-West is beautiful, even in Winter; in summer one could imagine it seen in a different light and certainly much more time could be wasted in the crystal bays and beaches there.
Our South-West visit was certainly a quickie and I doubt our week-long trip blog does the region justice. However; the season of a North migration is nearing and we’ve a few things to sort before then.
Till then xx
After 4 weeks ‘stationary’ we were feeling that familiar ‘itch’ of the feet. So, after a busy morning repacking and restocking and the putting out of a small caravan fire (yup) we were off on a mini inland journey.
We had plans to stop over in the historic town of York. York Shire offers free (powered) parking for vans in the Avon Park; a great incentive for travellers to stop in the town. An incentive that seemingly works so well, that big rig drivers wipe out poles to fit!
Instead we had a quick look about and a stroll across the old swing bridge before moving along to the next free camp; a peaceful bush reserve in Gwambygine, that suited us perfect.
York buildings and swing bridge
Gwambygine Picnic Area
We enjoyed our return to the great outdoors and sat up well after Eli was asleep star gazing, yabbering and eating grilled cheese; it’s the simple things we love.
The next morning with headaches from the wine consumed and a slight battle with a self serve/ pre-pay petrol bowser, we were on the road to Hyden; home of Wave Rock.
We passed through the small town of Corrigin, famous for a world record; 1325 ‘dog in the ute’ muster and the dog cemetery just outside town, where over 80 beloved canine pets rest.
There are no free camps in Hyden, but the Wave Rock Caravan Park has great sites and facilities, and includes a permit to all the natural attractions in Hyden.
The park is right beside the rock so we took to the paths exploring… WOW, how amazing and bizarre the wave shaped rock formation is!
We spent the afternoon walking across it and over the top to sweeping views of Hyden bushland, the town dam and the salt lakes.
Despite his best efforts Eli could not climb the wave, but we all had a bit of fun playing within some of the large rock formations atop it.
We turned in early that night ready for a big day the next; starting with a morning drive out to the Humps for a look at Mulka Cave.
Mulka cave is a significant Noongar tribe site; according to dreamtime the cave was the hideout of Mulka, the illegitimate son of a Woman and man forbidden to marry. Mulka was born cross eyed and unable to hunt with a spear, so instead he hunted children. When scolded by his mother for his ‘anti-social’ behaviour he killed her too. He was eventually tracked and killed himself by Noongar tribesmen.
High up on the walls and ceiling of the caves front, main and rear chambers the art and hand imprints of Mulka (who by legend was so large he could reach higher than any average man) can be seen.
Even though the cave itself is only small, the atmosphere is something special; eery and kind of lonely.
Beyond the cave are tracks into the bushland surrounding the Humps, as Eli was getting tired we chose one of the shorter walks to the Gnammas (water files).
After a nap for Eli and some lunch, we headed across the road to the Hyden Wildlife park. Eli had a blast racing around spotting the array of native, non-native and figurine animals. Though he spotted the caretakers dog and that’s the animal he wanted to ‘take’.
With just one more sight to cross of our Hyden explorer list, we popped Eli in his stroller and set off for a hike to Hippos Yawn.
See how it got it’s name?!!
It was a busy but satisfying few days and we completed it all just in time for the rain. Our final night in Hyden was very relaxed; cuddled up in bed with hot choccies and rain on our aluminum roof.
While on pause we have been playing around with Google Maps, marking where we’ve been so far; including day trips and stays. Above is a screenshot and below is a the detailed map link:
The Travelling 3 